Goniurosaurus is a group of geckos (genus) in the Eublepharidae family (same as leopard geckos). As of this writing, there are 27 species in the genus (see group breakdown at end of article). Their common names include cave geckos, ground geckos, and tiger geckos.
Cave geckos range from southern Japanese islands to south-west China to north-eastern Vietnam.
The Goniurosaurus group of geckos can be found mostly in the forests alongside small streams and rivers that feature outcroppings of limestone. Occasionally, they can of course be found in cave structures in the limestone. Mostly this group feels more comfortable hiding beneath rocks, fallen wood, and within the leaf litter of the forest floor. Note- they are found in a very specific microhabitats and generally in low population densities.
ENCLOSURE- The keeping and breeding of most species of Goniurosaurus is very easy, if one considers a few basic needs. For most species of cave geckos (exception is luii group- see below), due to their small body size, the enclosure can be smaller- 10 gallons (38 L) (20"x10"x12" or 50x25x30 cm) is fine for 1 individual but a 20 gallon (75 L) (30"x12"x12" or 75x30x30 cm) works better and is the minimum for a pair. For individuals in the luii group, a 20 gallon enclosure is minimal with a 30 gallon (113 L) (91"x12"x16" or 75x30x40 cm) enclosure preferred.
Horizontal space is more important than vertical space.
The substrate should be made up of a moisture-retentive material like coco fiber (coir fiber) mixed with dirt at about a 75/25% ratio. Mix in small pieces of sphagnum moss and dried leaves to help maintain moisture. Add dried leaves on top of the substrate as well.
The sides of the enclosure can be made up of a do-it-yourself type of background or covered with natural cork/cork tiles to offer both climbing space and offer the animals more privacy. For decor, offer natural bark or at least cork bark as they love to climb as evidence by their sharp claws. Cork bark tubes are cherished by the geckos but make sure they are plenty large enough for the animals to go into and out of. Include different diameter sized branches for climbing (as long as they are not too tall and too smooth). Add in small hiding areas like half coconut shells or other items with low ceilings to give the geckos a sense of security.
Include a water dish and food dish- Mealworm cups work well. Change the water out at least every few days or when it gets fouled.
LIGHTING, TEMPERATURE & HEATING - Many hobbyists that keep cave geckos offer only ambient room lighting due to how shy the animals are. However, if you do offer lighting, provide LED lighting to keep lower temperatures emitted from the lights. Cave gecko enclosures should be illuminated for around 12 hours a day. In winter the lighting can be reduced to 10 hours per day.
Cave geckos prefer cooler temperatures than many commonly kept geckos in the hobby. Again, many keepers do not include any heating option in cave gecko enclosures. Temperatures can range from 68 to 78 degrees F (20 - 26 C) with optimum being around 75 F (24 C). If you absolutely much include heat in their enclosure, select a heat mat with a thermostat.
Cave geckos do well with a reduction in their temperatures during the winter. Drop temps 5-6 degrees F.
HUMIDITY- Maintaining a high humidity for all cave geckos is a requirement. The right mix for their substrate is a great start. Another requirement is regular, light mistings of their enclosure. Always make sure the misting dries out before misting again. A trick often used to give cave geckos a humid area in the enclosure is to keep a mound of slightly damp sphagnum moss under a hide.
FEEDING- Cave geckos are insectivores. They are not picky eaters, but they certainly are not rambunctious. They will generally consume less feeder insects than more commonly kept geckos. The size of the feeder should be slightly longer than the width of the head. In order of preference, they prefer crickets, dubia, and then mealworms. Silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, wax worms, and small hornworms can also be offered occasionally. Dust the feeder insects 1-2 times a month with a quality vitamin and calcium with D3 mix.
BREEDING- Breeding starts of course with obtaining a male and at least one female. A male is distinguished by a bulkier, with a defined separation, bulge at the base of their tail. Never keep more than one male in the enclosure but keeping multiple females is normally not an issue when you provide sufficient food and hides. Cave geckos will normally lay 2 eggs every 30-40 days during breeding season. After introduction, a successful breeding, and a few weeks waiting, the females will start showing they are gravid by exhibiting 2 whitish orbs in their underside.
A lay box filled with a mixture of slightly damp coir fiber/peat moss may be provided. The females may prefer though another part of the enclosure to dig a small area out to deposit their eggs. They will them cover them up and leave them. Gently, and slowly sift the substrate or the material in the lay box to find the eggs. They will feel firm yet pliable. It is best to remove the eggs for incubation away from the parents. However, many cave gecko parents will neither bother the eggs or the newly hatched baby geckos.
INCUBATING THE EGGS- Fill a small container with the same material you used for the lay box (slightly damp coir fiber/peat moss. Place two small divots with your finger in the material and place each egg in their separate indentation. This will keep them from rolling. Note- keep the egg's orientation the same from time of collection to adding them to the incubation container. The eggs should be incubated between 76-80 F (25 - 26.5 C). Check the material each week to make sure it maintains moisture. If it seems to dry out a bit, carefully add a small amount to the side of the material (away from the eggs). The eggs should hatch in about 60 days.
HATCHLING CARE- Once the hatchlings appear, you can transfer them to a container similar to their parents, yet smaller so you can keep an eye on them. Offer them small foods like crickets and mini mealworms.
Goniurosaurus can be divided into four species groups.
luii group:
Goniurosaurus araneus Grismer et al., 1999 – Vietnamese leopard gecko
Goniurosaurus bawanglingensis Grismer et al., 2002
Goniurosaurus catbaensis Ziegler, Nguyen, Schmitz, Stenke & Rösler, 2008 – Cat Ba leopard gecko
Goniurosaurus chengzheng Zhu, Li & He in Zhu et al., 2021 – Chengzheng cave gecko
Goniurosaurus gezhi Zhu, He & Li, 2020[3]
Goniurosaurus huuliensis Orlov et al., 2008
Goniurosaurus luii Grismer et al., 1999
Goniurosaurus liboensis Y. Wang et al., 2013
Goniurosaurus kadoorieorum Yang & Chan, 2015 – Kadoories's cave gecko
Goniurosaurus kwangsiensis Yang & Chan, 2015 – Guangxi cave gecko
lichtenfelderi group:
Goniurosaurus kwanghua Zhu & He, 2020
Goniurosaurus lichtenfelderi (Mocquard, 1897) – Lichtenfelder's gecko
Goniurosaurus sinensis Zhou, Peng, Hou & Yuan, 2019
Goniurosaurus zhoui Zhou, N. Wang, Chen & Liang, 2018 – Zhou's leopard gecko
kuroiwae group:
Goniurosaurus kuroiwae (Namiye, 1912) – Kuroiwa's ground gecko
Goniurosaurus nebulozonatus Kurita & Toda, 2024
Goniurosaurus orientalis (Maki, 1931) – spotted ground gecko
Goniurosaurus sengokui Honda & Ota, 2017 – Sengoku's gecko
Goniurosaurus splendens (Nakamura & Uéno, 1959) – banded ground gecko
Goniurosaurus toyamai Grismer et al., 1994 – Iheyajima leopard gecko
Goniurosaurus yamashinae (Okada, 1936) – Yamashina's ground gecko
yingdeensis group:
Goniurosaurus gollum Qi et al., 2020 – Gollum leopard gecko
Goniurosaurus varius Qi et al., 2020
Goniurosaurus wangshu Zhu et al., 2022 – Wangshu's leopard gecko
Goniurosaurus yingdeensis Y. Wang et al., 2010 – Yingde leopard gecko
Goniurosaurus zhelongi Y. Wang et al., 2014 – Zhe-long's leopard gecko
The amazing colors and patterns of the Cave Gecko
Distribution of Cave Geckos
Amazing Cave Gecko setup
Cave Gecko eggs ready for incubation
Baby Cave Geckos (Goniurosaurus hainanensis) (using Supreme Hatch Material as a hatching medium)
Baby Cave Geckos (Goniurosaurus hainanensis)